slí kerry
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ModerateLakes · Dingle

Com an Áir
Lakes.

A walk into the deep corrie and remote lakes east of Mount Brandon, among steep mountain ground on Corca Dhuibhne.

Also known as Coumanare.

DISTANCE
10.32km
ASCENT
481m
HIGH POINT
459m

My time 4 hr 30 · rough mountain ground · separate start and finish GRADE GUIDE ↗

Reading the map…
INTERACTIVE TERRAIN · ACTUAL GPX TRACKACTUAL GPX TRACK

A recorded time is not a planning estimate. Build your own from pace, ascent, ground, weather and daylight.

GPXEMERGENCY

01 · DECIDE

Is this your day?

ELEVATION PROFILE

Into the corrie at 459 m.

The route climbs into Com an Áir before descending to a different finish. Its accumulated ascent is 481 metres.

Reading the forecast

481 m ascent · 565 m descent

THE LINE

The hollow of the slaughter.

The route goes deep into the corrie around the lakes before finishing farther west.

Com an Áir

The official Irish name recorded by the Placenames Database of Ireland is Locha Chom an Áir for the lakes and Com an Áir for the surrounding townland. The lakes are the Coumanare lakes in English, and the name is commonly rendered as “the hollow of the slaughter”.

The Coumanare arrows

For generations that was explained by a battle between the champions of Ulster and Munster, and what kept coming out of the ground seemed to bear it out. On the saddle between Slievanea and Croaghskearda, where the peat is eroding back to bare stone, people have been finding short worked sticks: 150 to 170 mm long, up to 20 mm thick, sharpened at one end or at both. They have a name of their own, the Coumanare arrows. Several hundred were carried off and written up by Hitchcock in 1850 and Tempest in 1938, and many more went without record.

A UCC survey in 1970 found them still sitting in the peat faces, mostly in groups, some upright, some canted over, some lying flat, with slivers of wood beside them from the sharpening. The site runs to several acres and the peat is up to two metres deep: one arrow was recorded 0.61 m from the base of a face a metre deep, so the ground still holds most of them.

Two other things have come out of it. A flint flake, found loose on a peat bank during the Survey's own visit. And a large oak peg, 0.38 m long and 25 mm thick, pointed at one end and pierced by a hole at the other, which Tempest recorded and nobody has explained either.

A trap for deer, not a battle

The Archaeological Survey calls their purpose a mystery and the battle an unlikely explanation of it. The likelier reading is that they were set in the ground as a trap for deer. Pollen from the peat around one of them puts it near the point where the Middle Bronze Age was giving way to the Late. So there may well have been a slaughter here to give the hollow its name, about three thousand years ago, and it may have been of deer.

Sixteen carved panels

The arrows were found on the saddle above, not on this route. What this route does cross is rock art: sixteen panels within a hundred and fifty metres of the line, the nearest five metres off it, along with clearance cairns, hut sites and enclosures. The lakes sit inside a worked prehistoric landscape, and the route crosses the middle of it.

  1. 01Northern approachThe route begins above the northern side of the peninsula.
  2. 02Corrie groundRougher terrain leads towards the lakes beneath steep slopes.
  3. 03Recorded high pointThe line reaches 459 m above the corrie.
  4. 04Separate finishThe route descends south-west rather than returning to its start.

The lakes hold their own names: Loch Iarthair, the west lake, Loch Meáin, the middle lake, and An Loch Dubh, the black lake. The arrows are Archaeological Survey site KE044-128, described from J. Cuppage, Corca Dhuibhne: Dingle Peninsula Archaeological Survey (Ballyferriter, 1986), no. 1560, with the dating from Mitchell 1951; the deer trap is the Survey’s own likelier reading rather than a closed question, and the battle is still the version you will hear told locally. The Archaeological Survey plots the record as a single point and gives no boundary for it, so its several acres are described rather than mapped. The sixteen rock-art panels and the surrounding cairns, huts and enclosures are Archaeological Survey records, counted within 150 m of the recorded GPX; the site conditions are not described here because the records do not describe them. The find site is on the saddle above, not down among the lakes: this recording passes no closer than 1.6 km, while the line on the Cruach Scéirde route runs over it, closing to about fifty metres of the published coordinate. Examples of the objects appear in the West Kerry Museum catalogue ↗. Placename spelling verified against the Placenames Database of Ireland ↗

Forecast for around 450 m

Reading the forecast…

NOW
WIND
TODAY’S PEAK RAIN CHANCE
PLANNING FORECAST · AROUND 450 M

Reading the forecast…

–cloud
–humidity
–km/h peak gust
Strongest wind today–
Peak gust–
RECENT RAINFALL · LIKELY GROUND
RAIN, GUST & VISIBILITY WINDOW
BEST HIKING WINDOW
DAYLIGHT PLAN
MET ÉIREANN · KERRY

NEXT SIX HOURS · swipe

Reading the forecast

Forecast. This is a modelled estimate for this route’s high ground; conditions can differ sharply across the mountain. Derived from Open-Meteo forecast data ↗.

HAZARDS & OPTIONSKnow the commitment.

Remote mountain ground with limited easy escape options.

Steep corrie slopes and wet ground around the lakes.

Cloud can remove visual reference points quickly.

If visibility or ground conditions deteriorate early, go back the way you came rather than improvising across steep corrie ground.

INSIDE THE CORRIE

My photographs.

8 photographsSwipe and tap to enlarge from the walk · select to enlarge
01Summer over the corrie
02Loch a’ Dúin (The Lake of the Fort)
03Weather gathering
04Walking into the hollow
05Light across the cliffs
06At the water’s edge
07Detail on the moor
08The hollow from above

03 · GO

Getting there.

Start well.

STARTCom an Áir approach

Select coordinates to copy

The walk doesn’t finish where it starts. I left one car at the graveyard in An Baile Dubh, Ballyduff, which has room for two, and the other at the lay-by at Loch a’ Dúin. Arrange the same, or a safe way back, before you set out.

ROUTE FILE

Take the route with you.

The original GPX, exactly as walked. Load it into your watch, phone or offline mapping before you leave signal.

Track geometry and activity time come from the GPX. Elevation, cumulative distance, ascent and descent come from my matching GeoJSON.

Download original GPXcom-an-air-lakes.gpx · as recorded
More formatsGeoJSONKML

Confirm the download when your browser asks, then open the file from your browser’s downloads and your mapping app will offer to take it. HiiKER and Garmin Explore both do; the route loads on HiiKER’s free tier, though its EastWest mapping of the Irish uplands is a paid layer. Onto a watch: import the GPX into Garmin Connect, Komoot or Strava and send it to the device from there.

Remote ground and two trailheads.

Plan the finish before you leave the start.

Com an Áir is a remote corrie route rather than a closed loop. Transport, navigation and deteriorating weather all need to be considered before setting out.

Before you leave
  • Check the forecast and warnings
  • Plan your daylight
  • Save the GPX or an offline map
  • Pack footwear and layers
  • Share your route and return time
  1. 01Arrange the finishThe GPX ends away from its start, so organise transport in advance.
  2. 02Navigate independentlyCarry a paper map and compass and know how to use them.
  3. 03Protect your marginTurn back early if cloud, wind or wet ground exceeds your experience.
  4. 04Share your planLeave both trailheads and your expected return time with someone.

Leave a plan.

Tell someone your route and return time. For emergencies in Ireland call 112 or 999 and ask for Mountain Rescue.

Mountain safety guidance

More in Dingle

All 33 routes →

AFTER THE WALK

Post-hike picks.

A small, personal shortlist around Com an Áir, Camp and Stradbally.

01Coffee · post-hike stop

The Filling Station Camp

A coffee stop in Camp on the journey back from Com an Áir. Check Instagram for current opening times.

Camp, Co. Kerry
02Pub · food · post-hike stop

Tomásín’s Bar & Restaurant

A traditional pub and restaurant in Stradbally for food or a post-hike drink after Com an Áir. Check Instagram for current opening times.

Stradbally, Castlegregory, Co. Kerry, V92 AD65