The Filling Station Camp
A coffee stop in Camp on the journey back from Com an Áir. Check Instagram for current opening times.
Camp, Co. KerryModerateLakes · Dingle · recorded
A recorded journey into the deep corrie and remote lakes east of Mount Brandon, surrounded by steep mountain ground in the heart of Corca Dhuibhne.
Also known as Coumanare.
Rob’s recorded time 4 hr 30 · rough mountain ground · 666 recorded track points · separate recorded start and finish GRADE GUIDE ↗
A recorded time is not a planning estimate. Build your own from pace, ascent, ground, weather and daylight.
ONE · BEFORE YOU COMMIT
The grade, the hazards, the forecast and the ground the route actually crosses. Everything you need to decide whether to go at all.
WEATHER AT A GLANCE
Forecast. This is a modelled estimate for this route’s high ground; conditions can differ sharply across the mountain. Detailed planning guidance follows. Derived from Open-Meteo forecast data ↗.
RECORDED ELEVATION
The recording climbs into Com an Áir before descending to a different finish. Its accumulated ascent is 481 metres.
Reading the forecast
THE LINE
The recording reaches deep into the glacial landscape around the lakes before finishing farther west.
The official Irish name recorded by the Placenames Database of Ireland is Locha Chom an Áir for the lakes and Com an Áir for the surrounding townland. The lakes are the Coumanare lakes in English, and the name is commonly rendered as “the hollow of the slaughter”.
The arrows are not the oldest thing on this walk, and they are not the most numerous. Sixteen panels of rock art are recorded within a hundred and fifty metres of the recorded line, the nearest five metres off it, along with clearance cairns, hut sites and enclosures. The lakes sit inside a worked prehistoric landscape, and the recording crosses the middle of it.
For generations that was explained by a battle between the champions of Ulster and Munster, and what kept coming out of the ground seemed to bear it out. On the saddle between Slievanea and Croaghskearda, where the peat is eroding back to bare stone, people have been finding short worked sticks: 150 to 170 mm long, up to 20 mm thick, sharpened at one end or at both. They have a name of their own, the Coumanare arrows. Several hundred were carried off and written up by Hitchcock in 1850 and Tempest in 1938, and many more went without record.
A UCC survey in 1970 found them still sitting in the peat faces, mostly in groups, some upright, some canted over, some lying flat, with slivers of wood beside them from the sharpening. The site runs to several acres and the peat is up to two metres deep: one arrow was recorded 0.61 m from the base of a face a metre deep, so the ground still holds most of them.
Two other things have come out of it. A flint flake, found loose on a peat bank during the Survey's own visit. And a large oak peg, 0.38 m long and 25 mm thick, pointed at one end and pierced by a hole at the other, which Tempest recorded and nobody has explained either.
The Archaeological Survey calls their purpose a mystery and the battle an unlikely explanation of it. The likelier reading is that they were set in the ground as a trap for deer. Pollen from the peat around one of them puts it near the point where the Middle Bronze Age was giving way to the Late. So there may well have been a slaughter here to give the hollow its name, about three thousand years ago, and it may have been of deer.
The lakes hold their own names: Loch Iarthair, the west lake, Loch Meáin, the middle lake, and An Loch Dubh, the black lake. The arrows are Archaeological Survey site KE044-128, described from J. Cuppage, Corca Dhuibhne: Dingle Peninsula Archaeological Survey (Ballyferriter, 1986), no. 1560, with the dating from Mitchell 1951; the deer trap is the Survey’s own likelier reading rather than a closed question, and the battle is still the version you will hear told locally. The Archaeological Survey plots the record as a single point and gives no boundary for it, so its several acres are described rather than mapped. The sixteen rock-art panels and the surrounding cairns, huts and enclosures are Archaeological Survey records, counted within 150 m of the recorded GPX; the site conditions are not described here because the records do not describe them. The find site is on the saddle above, not down among the lakes: this recording passes no closer than 1.6 km, while the line on the Cruach Scéirde route runs over it, closing to about fifty metres of the published coordinate. Examples of the objects appear in the West Kerry Museum catalogue ↗. Placename spelling verified against the Placenames Database of Ireland ↗
Reading the forecast
Reading the forecast
Reading the forecast
Reading the forecast
Reading the forecast
NEXT SIX HOURS · swipe
Reading the forecast
Remote mountain ground with limited easy escape options.
Steep corrie slopes and wet ground around the lakes.
Cloud can remove visual reference points quickly.
The recorded line has different start and finish points.
This is not a closed loop. Know where the recorded finish lies and arrange transport in advance. If visibility or ground conditions deteriorate early, retreat along the known outward line rather than improvising across steep corrie ground.
INSIDE THE CORRIE
TWO · YOU’VE DECIDED
Where it starts, the recorded file, and the checks worth making before you leave the house.
PLAN THE GROUND
Select coordinates to copy
The supplied activity does not finish where it starts. Arrange transport or confirm a safe return plan before setting out. The coordinate marks the recording, not guaranteed formal parking.
ROUTE FILE
666 recorded track points, exactly as walked. Load it into your watch, phone or offline mapping before you leave signal.
Track geometry and activity time come from the GPX. Elevation, cumulative distance, ascent and descent come from the matching GeoJSON supplied by @kerrymountains.rob.
Onto a watch: import the GPX into Garmin Connect, Komoot or Strava and send it to the device from there. On a phone, the Garmin Explore and OS Maps apps take the file straight from the share sheet.
BEFORE YOU GO
Plan the finish before you leave the start.
Com an Áir is a remote corrie route rather than a closed loop. Transport, navigation and deteriorating weather all need to be considered before setting out.
These checks support your planning; they do not confirm that the route is safe.
Tell someone your route and return time. For emergencies in Ireland call 112 or 999 and ask for Mountain Rescue.
AFTER THE WALK
A small, personal shortlist around Com an Áir, Camp and Stradbally. Check current opening times before making the journey.
A coffee stop in Camp on the journey back from Com an Áir. Check Instagram for current opening times.
Camp, Co. KerryA traditional pub and restaurant in Stradbally for food or a post-hike drink after Com an Áir. Check Instagram for current opening times.
Stradbally, Castlegregory, Co. Kerry, V92 AD65